Ingredients

• 6 to 8 fresh serrano chiles (2 ounces total)
• 20 fresh curry leaves
• 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped peeled ginger
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 pound tomatoes, chopped
• 2 1/2 ounces finely grated fresh or dried unsweetened coconut (1 cup; visit gourmet.com for how to extract meat from fresh coconut)
• 2 pounds large shrimp in shell, peeled and deveined
• Accompaniment: white rice

Instructions

1. Quarter chiles lengthwise (seed and devein if you want less heat). Cook chiles, curry leaves, garlic, and ginger in oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium-high heat, stirring, until very fragrant and chiles are just softened, 1 to 2 minutes.
2. Reduce heat to medium and add spices, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring, until mustard seeds just begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes.
4. Add tomatoes and coconut, then cook, covered, until tomatoes are softened, 4 to 6 minutes.
5. Add shrimp and cook, uncovered, stirring, until just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.