Ingredients

• 1/4 cup sugar
• 1/4 cup malt vinegar
• 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 small shallots, thinly sliced
• 1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced into rings, seeds removed
• 1 jalapeño, thinly sliced into rings, seeds removed
• 1 small cucumber, cut into 1/2" spears
• 1 dried chile de árbol
• 1 cinnamon stick, lightly crushed
• 3 whole cloves
• 1 cup distilled white vinegar
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced into rings
• 3 tablespoons finely grated peeled horseradish
• 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon English mustard powder
• 1/2 cup heavy cream
• Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
• freshly ground pepper
• 6 ounces cold-smoked salmon, skin removed, cut into 1/2" pieces
• Dill sprigs and parsley sprigs (for serving)

Instructions

1. Bring sugar, both vinegars, salt, and 1/3 cup water to a boil in a small saucepan, reduce heat and simmer, stirring, until sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add shallots, Fresno chile, and jalapeño. Let cool.
2. Place cucumber spears in a glass jar and pour cooled liquid over. Cover jar and chill at least 3 hours.
3. Cucumber can be pickled 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.
4. Bring chile, cinnamon, cloves, vinegar, sugar, and salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring, until sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Add onion and cook, stirring, until just softened and bright pink. Transfer to a heatproof jar with a slotted spoon.
5. Let brine cool, then pour over onion.
6. Onion can be pickled 1 week ahead. Cover and chill.
7. Mix horseradish, lemon juice, vinegar, sugar, and mustard powder in a small bowl.
8. Whisk cream in another small bowl to soft peaks. Gently fold in horseradish mixture; season with salt and pepper.
9. Divide salmon, pickled cucumber, and pickled red onion among plates. Top with dill and parsley sprigs; season with pepper. Serve with horseradish cream alongside.